Saturday, February 27, 2021

Poneke Meat Products

Poneke, an advertiser on the 1893 New Zealand Second Sideface Issue
Be Sure You Ask For Poneke Potted Meats
Poneke Beef Extract / The Best & Cheapest
Use Only Poneke Table Jelly
Introduction
Poneke has been the most mysterious advertiser on the 1893 New Zealand Second Sideface issue, because we have had the brand (Poneke) but no known owner of said brand. Thus the overarching goal of this review was to try to infer who that owner might be. This task included investigating many aspects: the nature of Poneke’s products, the geographic extent of their advertising, the distribution and packaging of meat products as the turn of the century approached, and the Poneke name itself. Along the way we discover a few interesting tidbits. But one new discovery (the Woodville supplement) proved to be vital and led another researcher to rigorously solve this one hundred-year-old mystery (see the article by Robert Lyon in the June 2021 issue of the New Zealand Collector). 
Caveat
Two sources were not available to this author: Otley’s unpublished manuscript (reported by [Robb2006]) and a history of the Gear Meat Pie [WarwickJohnton], which would be sure to improve this review.
Advertisements
For their stamp advertisements, Poneke highlighted three products, as follows.
·         Table jellies: soft, clear, gelatinous table deserts usually prepared with fruit flavours and brightly coloured. Jellies, even in the most modest households, were commonly produced in extraordinarily decorative moulds, often with multi-coloured layers [FoodsOfEngTabJell]. The gelatin was obtained from animal bones, skin or feet boiled in water [MadeHowGel].
·         Meat extract:  highly concentrated juices from cooked meat. Its form was liquid in this era [WikiOxo]. Meat extract was used to add meat flavour in cooking, teas, and to make broth for soups and other liquid-based foods. [WikiMeatExtract]
·         Potted meat: cooked meat and (originally) stored in large jars with the fat from cooking poured onto and around the meat which cooled into a hard shell. This hard shell (especially around the jar opening) tended to block bacteria and keep the meat from decomposition. The meat was often puréed, minced, or ground; and seasoned. [WikiPottedMeat] [DelightCookPotMeat]
In newspapers, just two Poneke advertisements may be discerned:
·         From 19 August 1893 [AuckandStar1893Aug19P4] to 25 November 1893 [AucklandStar1893Nov25P4], Poneke ran the following single design in a single newspaper, the Auckland Star. This advert conveys much the same information as the stamp adverts:
Copyright Fairfax Media, protected by a Creative Commons New Zealand BY-NC-SA licence.
 
·         A single advert in a supplement is included in the Woodville Examiner [WoodvilleExa1893Sep04P1]. This supplement contains the most informative material available:
o    “.Poneke.” (inside a flattened diamond) was reportedly trademarked
o   The advert provides testimonials from:
§  W.R. Boyd, Physician for Outpatients, Melbourne Hospital, Huddle St, Richmond, written 24 May 1892
§   C.H. Molloy, Medical Superintendent, Melbourne Hospital, written 22 May 1892
§  D.E. Stewart, Campsey, Blyth St, Brunswick [Melbourne], written 27 April 1892
§  Each of these doctors did exist and held the indicated position: Boyd [MelAge1891Aug20P6], Malloy [MelHerald1894Jun02P1] and Stewart [CoburgLead1891Feb11P1] [CoburgLead1894Mar31P2]
o   Other potentially-useful information includes:
§   the Beef Extracts kept “good for many days after being opened”
§  “Sold by all Storekeepers and Chemists in three sizes, 1s 1d, 2s, and 3s 6d”
§  ““Poneke” brand potted meats / Ham and Chicken, Ham and Tongue / Potted Meat, Potted Ham / To be had of all Grocers and Storekeepers”
o   It was printed by Bock & Co., which, at the time, was managed purely by W.R. Bock, operating out of Lambton Quay, Wellington [CycloWell1897Bock]
§  Note: W.R.  Bock “was responsible for the design and preparation of the dies for the first fiscal and postage stamps to be produced wholly within the colony” (such as the 2/- and 5/- designs of the First Sidefaces) [TeAraBock].
o   In another case this author has seen an editorial article referring to a supplement included in the same newspaper issue, but that supplement apparently was not preserved and certainly is not part of the online record. We can extrapolate from this observation and speculate that Poneke might have advertised, via supplement, in other towns newspapers (perhaps around Woodville such as Palmerston North or Napier), but the supplements are long lost to history.
 
Geography
Finding a common denominator between Auckland, Woodville and Melbourne in this era is non-trivial. The main trunk line was not yet complete [WikiMainTrunk] so Auckland connected to the south via coastal steamer to New Plymouth (and Wellington) [WikiMartonNewPly] [CoastalTrade]. Woodville had been recently connected via railway to Longburn near Palmerston North (and thence New Plymouth or Wellington after a change of trains) [WikiPalmNor]. Melbourne of course required a voyage from Wellington or Auckland; and getting from Woodville to Melbourne required two train journeys and one voyage (if via Wellington) or two voyages (if via New Plymouth and Auckland).
Meanwhile [Robb2006] reports that Otley (in an unpublished manuscript) and Robertson [Robertson2000] both identify that Poneke is a Maori phonetic transliteration of Port Nick (Port Nicholson, now renamed Wellington Harbour), so a connection to Wellington is most likely.
The argument for Wellington as the nexus of operations can then be summarized as:
·          Wellington – uniquely – connects via a single voyage or a two-train journey to each of the other locales
·         The name Poneke clearly points to Wellington
·         The printer Bock operates in Wellington only.
The Melbourne hypothesis
Before we commit to Wellington, it is noteworthy that all the testimonials in the Woodville supplement are written a year earlier, and hark from Melbourne. This suggests that the Poneke business could have been started in Melbourne, or even had its base of operations there. However, from the Australian papers of the era, it is hard to find any relevant usage of Poneke since the entries are confined to:
·         News about the famous Poneke football club of Wellington
·         Poneke as a synonym for Port Nicholson
·         The pen-name of a Sydney columnist writing about yachting and rowing, e.g. [AustralianStar1891Oct17P9]. Presumably the author is an ex-pat Wellingtonian.
·         The name of a house on Alma St in Melbourne. The resident Clark family returned to New Zealand in 1895 and presumably they first heralded from Wellington too. [MelArgus1895Jan09P2]
Further, there is no trademark for Poneke issued in the state of Victoria (but there is one, for instance, for Cadburys) [VictTrademarkGuide] [VicGazettePonekeSearch]. Thus it seems highly unlikely that Poneke was used as a brand name in Melbourne.
 
The Raw Materials and Packaging
Here, and in the two following sections, we attempt to constrain the company behind the Poneke brand according to the source of its ingredients and how they were packed. It’s an uphill battle, but one discovery makes the journey worthwhile.
In the meat trade [ButherSlaughtermanDiff], animals are brought to a slaughterhouse/abattoir, killed, skinned and eviscerated (and their feet/hooves removed). Slaughterhouses were typically located at the edge of towns. The carcass, or primal cuts thereof, were distributed to local butchers where they were cut down to steaks, chops and the like, and the butcher made sausages and other small goods. [TeAraEarlyButchers]
Gelatin for table jellies comes primarily from the hooves and skin and has a good shelf life, so gelatin operations were typically adjacent to the slaughterhouse. In Wellington three huge and one small slaughterhouses are recorded (Garrett & Co. in Ngahauranga, Wellington Meat Export Company in Waterloo Quay and Ngahauranga, and Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company of New Zealand in Petone) but this does not preclude the existence of smaller operations since there were many other butchers with various levels of description [CycloWell1897MeatTrade] [CycloWell1897CommInd]: i.e. the table jellies don’t lead to anything conclusive.
From Poneke’s Woodville supplement, we learnt that Poneke was able to source ham, chicken, (beef) tongue, and beef.  This seems to preclude the Wellington Meat Export Company and Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company of New Zealand, since the Cyclopedia only describes them as slaughtering sheep and cattle. Other butchers of some size (such as E.W. Wilton, and Garrett & Co.) are described as “General Butchers” where the “General” might encompass chicken and ham. However the picture we obtain from the Cyclopedia is apparently incomplete since the Gear Meat Company certainly raised pigs and presumably slaughtered them too [NewZealandTime1893Nov15P3]. So: more inconclusiveness.
Meat extract involves significant reduction in volume [WikiMeatExtract], but the main ingredient is beef so processing can occur either at abattoir or butcher’s shop. Although this is unhelpful, we note that early meat extracts were stored in jars or cans, so we need to look for glassworks/bottlers or canneries [LiebigChromo] [Bovril].
 
Jars versus Cans
As we have seen, potted meat was meat protected by a hardened shell of fat and typically stored in jars which “kept the meat safe to eat for weeks or months in the right environment [NoRefridNoProb] [HistFoodiePotted]. In the wrong (unchilled) environment, we can expect the protection to be more like weeks. Meanwhile the time to produce the potted meat jars, store it for the next arriving coastal streamer, ship it from Wellington to Auckland, distribute it around Auckland, sell it, then for it to be consumed at home also seems like a period of some two weeks. Frozen meat shipments to Britain were well underway, which were profitable, but these were of carcasses not pre-processed small-goods, and it is hard to discern any records of coastal (intra-New Zealand) distribution of chilled/frozen products before 1912 [CoastalTrade]. Related, refrigeration equipment at the time was expensive and large-scale, yet the production and wholesaler sites could reasonably have cool rooms with ice acquired from a local freezing works (or similar). Still, cooling at retailers was more the domain of the butcher and even there their solution was oftentimes standing orders and rapid distribution rather than cool storage [TeAraButcher1902]. For the grocers, storekeepers or chemists, it seems that they dealt with fresh or dry goods (in chests, boxes, tins, jars, packets, etc) so expecting cold storage for jarred potted meat at these shops sounds like a stretch. Thus a distribution operation for jarred potted meat that depended on fast turnover seems chancy but not impossible.
The other alternative is that Poneke canned their meat products. If so, then speed of distribution becomes a non-issue.
Unfortunately none of the Poneke advertising, including the Woodville supplement, provides any direct hints as to how the Poneke products were packaged. On one hand, a meat extract in a can seems suboptimal  given that a “meat tea” or soup would require much less than a can’s-worth of meat extract (and peer vendors seemed to only use jars for meat extract) [LiebigChomo] [Bovril]. On the other hand, maybe customers were expected to transfer the can’s contents to their own jar once the can was opened?
There were multiple New Zealand meat canners at the end of the nineteenth century but – at first – glance – they didn’t describe their products as potted. For instance in the 1880s the Gear Meat Company printed a list of all their canned meats on their can labels: beef, mutton, brawn, Haricot mutton, curried chops, ox-cheek, stewed kidneys, potted head. Stewed rabbit. Epping sausage, minced meat. Tripe, ox tongues, sheep’s tongues, stewed steak, pig’s feet and soups of all descriptions. [GearSheepLabel1880s] [GearLabels1890to1920]. The only product identified as potted on the Gear label is Potted Head but this most likely refers to Potted Heid, also named Potted Hough, a traditional Scottish concoction made from a meaty, cracked shin bone from which the gelatin in the bones and meat (plus spices) survive to the finished delicacy, which is poured into moulds and chilled (or equivalently poured into cans?) [ScottishPottedHough]. A dish produced in much the same way, except it is spelt “potted head” exactly, is described in [TimesPottedHead] and uses an actual sheep’s head, sans brains, but otherwise seems to be identical to Potted Hough/Heid.
But hold on! At the Annual Meeting of the Gear Meat Company of 5 January 1893, the chair, J. Gear, said “During the year no[t] very extensive additions have been made to the buildings or plant, beyond some improvements in the preserving department, and the addition of a plant for turning out potted meat, which I have every reason to think will be highly successful.” [NewZealandTim1893Jan05P4]. From a different article some two years later, we learn that “The exhibit of the Gear Meat Company consists chiefly of potted meats; nicely canned and arranged; and some specimens of bone manure.” [NewZealandTim1894Nov15P3]. Occam’s razor suggests that Gear’s potted meats were always canned.
By-the-by, January 1893 is a very significant date since the first, second and third advert settings first appeared on stamps in mid-February, mid-April and mid-August respectively. The Poneke adverts are only present in the third setting, and presumably the engraving of the plate for the third setting would have started some months beforehand; so one might hypothesise a cause-and-effect here: a new product-line triggering new advertising. However, in isolation this timing is just circumstantial.
 
Packagers – Jars
We must say up-front that New Zealand had a dismal history of making glass jars and bottles.
In 1870 W. Wilthew set up a glassworks in Auckland with the aim of starting with lamp chimneys and later installing equipment to make bottles. The Auckland Glassworks struggled to survive, hampered by competition from glass importers, the expense of moulds, the need to import sand from Sydney and a failure to persuade any glassmakers to emigrate from Europe. The first bottles manufactured in New Zealand were made at the Auckland Glassworks in 1874 but the technical problems of bottle manufacture led Wilthew to withdraw from making them after only one year. The Auckland Glassworks had closed by 1880. Between 1881 and 1903 there were at least seven glassworks in New Zealand which opened and failed. These included the New Zealand Glass & Pottery Company that operated in Dunedin (1881-1882); the Kaiapoi Glassworks built near Christchurch which never went into production (1885); the New Zealand Glassware Company in Wellington that made jars (1897-99); Chamberlain & Company in New North Road, Auckland which aimed to make bottles mechanically (1900); a glassworks factory in Christchurch that closed soon after set up (1902/3) and yet another Auckland glassworks that was set up and closed down (1903). All of these failed ventures faced the same pressures: very high set-up costs, very high costs of imported sand, no local skilled glassworkers, and fierce competition from importers. …
By 1902 there was a desperate shortage of glass bottles in New Zealand and Parliament took action in 1903 by putting bottles on the free import list. No longer restricted to buying from Britain, bottles and glassware poured into New Zealand from all over the world. [HeriAshGlass]
 The Cyclopedia volumes bear this out: they only mention jars once (google.com / jar cyclopedia .site:nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly) and it describes how Lawrence Brothers of Invercargill, a jam manufacturer with an extensive orchard, imports all their jam jars [CycloOtag1905Lawr]. The Cyclopedia refers to many bottlers and bottling departments but does not record the source of the bottles; rather we see that most vendors have bottle washing departments [e.g. CycloTar1908Brew, CycloTar1908Mast, CycloWell1897Comm, CycloTar1908Bull, CycloAuck1902Camp] and on occasion report that their bottles are imported [CycloWell1897Thom] [CycloOtag1905Chem] [CycloWell1897Prof]. The Cyclopedia only records a single bottle manufacturer, Lambert who “held contracts for supplying acid bottles to the New Zealand Drug Company” [CycloOtag1905Lamb]. In short, bottles were imported and recycled many times (and sometimes with a middleman involved [CycloCant1903Chem]).
Thus, if Poneke used jars for their meat extract or potted meats then almost surely they – or a middleman – imported them from Britain. This path doesn’t seem to constrain the Poneke owner at all.
 
Packagers – Cans
In 1893, canning of meat was becoming unfashionable (and we infer that the frozen meat trade to Britain was more lucrative) [NzBurn1880s] [CycloWell1897DailPap]. The Cyclopedia volumes (google.com / canning cyclopedia .site:nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly) record the following canning operations throughout New Zealand:
·         Meat (etc)
o   Russel, Bay of Islands; Masefield Bros; fish (and also beef and fruit) canning [Cyclo1902AuckMase]
o   Patea; Western Packing and Canning Company; “canned mutton and beef … The preserved products are all exported to the old world” (and “By general request, [unpreserved] meat is supplied to the public at retail prices” [CycloTar1908Patea], also listed as the West Coast Packing and Canning Co [CycloTar1908Pack].
§  The Cylcopedia also refers to the Patea Meat Canning Works, but this is most likely another synonym for the Western Packing and Canning Company of Patea [CycloTar1908Patea]
o   Wanganui; meat canning works, which had closed in 1891 [NzBurn1880s]
o   Petone, Wellington; Gear Meat Freezing and Preserving Co, “sheep … for freezing, canning and boiling down” … “15,000 pounds per day are canned – exclusive of fancy pastes, sheeps tongues etc, - and labelled with the popular brand “Gear Company,” and packed for shipment.” Cattle are also slaughtered for beef. [Cylo1897CommInd]
o   Greymouth; Foxcroft; canned whitebait [CycloNel1906Iron]
o   Dunback, between Oamaru and Dunedin; Dunback Rabbit Canning Factory [CycloTar1908Musi] [CycloOtag1905McGreg]
o   Otago; Green Island Meat Preserving Works [CycloWell1897DailPap]
o   Woodlands, Southland; New Zealand Meat Preserving Company / Woodlands Packing and Canning Co.; rabbit and meat [CycloOtag1905Wood] [CycloOtag1905]
·         Fruit
o   Birkenhead, Auckland; Thompson, but established 1899 [CycloAuck1902Birk]
o   Hastings; Frimley, but established 1904 [CycloTar1908Nurs] [CycloTar1908Intro]
o   Nelson; Kirkpatrick [CycloNel1906Nel]
o   Canned fruit was also imported from California [CycloWell1897Bann]
Further, Pickering of Pahiatua made cans of all descriptions [CycloWell1897Prof].
The Cyclopedia volumes make no mention of canning of chicken or pig; only the products from cattle, sheep, rabbit, fish and fruit. However, from above, we suspect that this may not be a complete picture of 1893.
 
Usage of “Poneke”
Robertson writes “Since Poneke is the Maori word for Port Nicholson (Wellington Harbour) it is likely that the products were manufactured by Wellington Meat Export Co. Ltd at Ngauranga, or by the Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Co. of NZ Ltd at Petone, or by a Wellington-based smallgoods firm.” [Robertson2000]. Furthermore, [Robb2006] reports that Otley had the same opinion (in an unpublished manuscript). This makes a lot of sense, and we flesh out some further details below.
Anyone living in Wellington or Petone, or living on the hills above downtown Wellington, or taking a train to work from Petone or the Hutt to Ngauranga or Wellington (or conversely from Wellington to Ngauranga, Petone or the Hutt, or arriving at Wellington by ship would feel some connection to Port Nicholson as a name, and would plausibly be familiar with the Poneke transliteration.
Meanwhile there is a celebrated Wellington rugby football club founded in 1883 with its base Kilbirnie adjacent to Port Nicholson [ToituPoneke]. The club is the Poneke Football Club, and for many of its fans, players and administrators of the era, no doubt the name Poneke had fond associations.
In short, it seems fair to say that Poneke points to the Wellington waterfront, Kilbirnie, Ngauranga and/or Petone, but itself does not narrow down the owner of the Poneke brand by much.
The Cyclopedia volumes are a suitable corpus to validate this analysis of “Poneke” since they thoroughly captures the government and business people of the day and are near-contemporaneous (1897-1908 versus 1893). When searching for “Poneke” (i.e. google.com / poneke cyclopedia .site:nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly/), there are about 40 hits, in three groups:
·         Poneke Football Club
o   There is a paragraph on page 427 describing the club
o   Various alumni and administrators of the club
·         Document titles in Maori, where “Wellington” is rendered as “Poneke”
·         Poneke Lodge, of the Order of Druids (a single hit at [Cyclo1897CommInd])
 
The Gear Works at Petone, in the early 1900s showing (top to bottom): Port Nicholson, Petone Wharf, the pale buildings of the Gear Works with receiving paddocks in front, Jackson St (the angled street in the middle), sundry small buildings, the Hutt Rd, and Petone Railway Station with a stopped train.
The hit in the last group leads to a very interesting connection (or coincidence?), as follows. The aforementioned Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company had a very close association with Port Nick. Its main works were situated between Jackson St and the Port Nicholson, at the western side of Petone. Cattle and sheet entered the works on Jackson St, they were slaughtered and (many) were frozen. Given that the refrigerated export ships arrived intermittently but the works ran continuously, there was a need to store the carcasses. Initially the refrigeration plant was on a hulk (a floating but unseaworthy ship), named Jubilee, anchored at the end of the Petone wharf on the seaward side of the Gear works; and the fresh carcasses were delivered to the ship for freezing. As volumes increased, additional refrigeration plant was built on land and the frozen carcasses were taken to the Jubilee. Whenever a refrigerated export ship arrived, the frozen meat was trans-shipped directly from the Jubilee to the export ship. [CycloWell1897CommInd]
Now the manager of the Jubilee hulk, who surely spent almost all his workdays on the hulk in the midst of Port Nicholson, was a man named Captain John Teasdale King [CycloWell1897CommInd]. It was the same Captain King who was one of the founders of the Poneke Lodge [FamCirPoLod], and it might be presumed he had some influence over the choice of name for the Lodge.
The United Ancient Order of Druids evolved as a social club and to provide mutual assistance between members: dues were paid then, if a member fell ill or died and the family needed his funeral expenses paid, then the UAOD would take care of the bill. Such lodges played a vital role in the days before the social welfare safety net [WikiUAOD]. The Poneke Lodge was one node of the organization, and was founded on 19 May 1886 and met on Victoria St, which runs right by the Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company. [FamCirPoLod] [EveningPost1909Apr06P2]
The job of a slaughterman is a dangerous one, with frightened animals and sharp knives. Given the proximity and need, it seems likely that the Poneke Lodge was especially created to attract and support workers of the Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company.
The takeaway of this line of thinking is that “Poneke” would be an obvious and natural choice for any new product-line of the Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company.
Connection to Truebridge, Miller and Reich
In a superb research effort, [Lyon2012] identifies two meat businesses with close ties to Truebridge, Miller and Reich, the company with the contract for selling stamp advertising on the rear of stamps. Although Lyon’s full article is required reading, a brief overview is that the two businesses are:
·         Jacob Joseph Meat and Produce Co., a substantial enterprise, for whom “A.H. Truebridge acted as secretary to the issuing of the share prospectus in 1890”, and
·         Hansen Co., a meat-extract manufacturer, founded by Anton Hendrek Hansen (amongst others), where “A.H. Truebridge was the secretary for the company and was also a shareholder” and the registered address of the Hansen Co. was the same as the address of Truebridge, Miller and Reich. [Lyon2012]
 
Bottom Up
We’ve now reviewed all the available evidence, and some suspects’ names have arisen already. Next, let’s look at all the suspects.
Many Wellington butchers are recorded in the Wellington Provincial edition of the Cyclopedia [Cyclo1897MeatTrade]. The one-line entries may be presumed to be small operations retailing meat to their local community, and none operate from Kilbirnie. For the companies awarded a text description, many are still “family butchers”, have modestly sized premises, cure bacon and ham, or specialise in sausages, oysters or fish, and they also seem easy to dismiss. The remaining, larger businesses are:
·         E.W. Wilton, “General and Family Butcher”, whose “trade extends over the city and suburbs”
o   Even so, E.W Wilton’s business seems to be on too small a scale to support claims like “Sold by all Storekeepers and Chemists” around Woodville or distribution to Auckland
o   Rated “unpromising”
·         The shipping butchers
o   Barber and Co. has “the largest [shop] in the city” and are “contractors to the Admiralty and to the Shaw, Savill and Albion Shipping Company”
o   Garrett & Co. are described as “General and Shipping Butchers” and have a slaughter-house and yards at Ngahauranga, employing in all seven hands”
o   Shipping butchers prepared meat for long voyages, with an emphasis on salted and cured meats (and perhaps potted meats too; meanwhile neither company has a cannery). Their contacts with the shipping industry would make distribution to Auckland easier than most.
o   Both rated “maybe”
·         Wellington Meat Export Company, Limited, founded “for the shipment of frozen meat and dairy produce to England” who “export most of the meat they freeze, a small quantity being sold to local butchers”
o   This massive operation has close ties to Port Nicholson (Poneke), with works at Waterloo Quay and Ngahauranga. However, nothing else stands out (no cannery, no preserving/jars, no New Zealand distribution network, and reportedly sheep and beef only) and its frozen meat export focus makes it a stretch that it would involve itself in the local potted meat trade.
o   Rated “possible”
·         Nelson Bros, “Meat Freezers and Exporter”
o   Despite being weakly connected to Port Nicholson (Poneke) though their office in Wellington, their main, large-scale works in Hawkes Bay “do a large trade in tinned meats, and also in freezing and storing fish, poultry, game, etc” [Cyclo1908TarMeat]. The railway line makes Woodville very close; and Nelson Bros was always set up to join the frozen meat trade with Britain [KnowledTomoana] so coastal shipping to Auckland is not such a great stretch.
o   Rated “the wild-card”
·         Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company of New Zealand, “one of the most successful colonial undertakings of the kind”
o   Another huge business with distribution nationally [NzHer1886Aug18P7] and to Britain, this has the greatest connection to Port Nicholson (Poneke) since their works were directly beside the harbor at Petone, they had a hulk at the end of a wharf pointing directly out into the harbor and their works were adjacent/nearby to an UAOD lodge named Poneke Lodge
o   Even more significantly, they added plant for (canned?) potted meat early in 1893, some months before the Poneke advertisements for the potted meat were engraved
o   It is not a stretch to imagine a connection to Melbourne, since Gear Meats won a prize at the Melbourne Centennial Exhibition of 1888-1889 [WikiCentExh] [GearLabels1890to1920], and was likely an exhibitor there with employees in attendance for months. This also applies to Nelson Bros but not the Wellington Meat Export Company [BayPlentyTim1889Jan17P2]. 
o   The Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Co. used Bock & Cousins Lithographers for their can labels; later W.R. Bock from that partnership printed the Woodville supplement [NatLibGearLabel]. However, this particular connection may have low significance since there were few other printers available.
o   Rated “most likely among the businesses named in the Cyclopedia”
There are two further two businesses identified in [Lyon2012]:
·         Jacob Joseph Meat and Produce Co. of which “little is known”
o   The business had employees in Wellington, Manawatu and Christchurch
o   As above, there was a solid connection through A.H Truebridge to Truebridge, Miller and Reich
o   Rated “insufficient data”
·         Hansen Co.
o   The business’ founding date lines up with the third setting of the advert stamps
o   Their cessation of advertising in the Auckland Star correlates with the business’ voluntary liquidation
o   They had about 10 products including “extract of beef”, “calf’s foot jelly”, and “potted preserved meats”
o   They had the strongest connection to Truebridge, Miller and Reich
o   Rated by Lyon as the “most likely company”
Despite the circumstantial data that points to a) the Gear Meat Preserving and Freezing Company of New Zealand or b) the Hansen Co., until recently we didn’t have conclusive evidence either way. 
Gear Meats’ potted meat was exported to Britain [BruceHer1894Jan09P2], and it is possible to imagine that the <.Poneke.> trademark was issued in Britain; but that does not seem to be the case (e.g. nothing relevant is discerned after searching for each of Zealand”, “meat”, “potted”, “Gear” or “Poneke” in the UK database of trademarks [NatArchUkTradeMark] [NatArchUkBT82]).
A definitive answer would also come if the Poneke trademark application were discovered in the New Zealand archives, but [Lyon2012] reports that this avenue had been tried without success. Another remote possibility is that a Poneke can label might yet be discovered, or the Bock archives contain detailed customer information [TeAraBock], or some other record or artefact might be found. And maybe a more definitive answer for this century-old mystery is imminent, since a publication on this exact topic is anticipated.
Instead, the definitive connection can be found in the 2021 New Zealand Stamp Collector, where it is confirmed that Hansen & Co. is the brand owner. Meanwhile, Hansen's recipe for meat extract was patented in Australia [NatArchAust: A13149, 9489] and is reported here:
"Take forty five pounds of the best young ox Beef, eight drachms* of thyme, eight drachms of parsley, eight drachms of sage and two drachms of mint; chop all the before-mentioned articles as small as possible and add two ounces of salt and one ounce of pepper, and put the whole into an open Copper boiler, with sufficient water to just cover the ingredients and give the whole a quick and continuous boiling for twelve hours; and stir the ingredients during the whole twelve hours and skim the surface from time to time. After the twelve hours boiling take out any bones or gristle and any remaining fat and strain the remaining compound through an ordinary Milk Strainer, then return the Compound to the aforesaid copper boiler and boil again slowly for four hours, stirring and skimming as before. Then strain again, through an ordinary milk Strainer, with a piece of muslin at the bottom of the strainer. Then add one pound of crystallized preserved sugar, and half a pound of corn flour and then return the Compound to the aforesaid Boiler, and boil again very slowly for three hours, stirring and skimming as before.
The Compound is then put into a stone Jar to settle for eight hours; it is then put back into the Boiler and just made warm and is then put through a fine muslin strainer, the result being about sixteen ounces of Nutritive Jelly which is then put into Jars of the required size and made Air tight."
*Drachm is an apothecary unit of measure, and equals "1⁄8 of an apothecaries' ounce of 480 grains, [and is] thus equal to 60 grains" or about 60 * 65.8 mg = 3.9g [Dram] [Grain].

References
[Robb2006] J.A. Robb, The 1893 New Zealand Advertisement Stamps, October 2006, Christchurch (N.Z.) Philatelic Society, p7
[Robertson2000] G.I. Robertson, QV Second SidefaceIssue: The Advertisers, The New Zealand Stamp Collector, Vol. 80, No.1, March 2000, pp.5-8
[Lyon2012] R. Lyon, Who is the Poneke Brand?  New information about this Mysterious Company, New Zealand Stamp Collector, vol. 92, no. 3, September 2012, pp.66-69

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